This Nautilus reference 3800 combines a range of distinctive and desirable features, across the rich colour of the dial, warm tone of the lume, and the subtle “Beyer” signature. This combination of features makes this perhaps one of the most appealing Nautilus 3800 pieces we’ve had the chance to handle.

In 1976, Patek Philippe introduced the first-ever Nautilus, the reference 3700. A few years later, in response to the slow start of the original model, the manufacture released the mid-size reference 3800. With a reduced diameter of 37.5mm, down from an imposing 42mm, it was meant to bring the Nautilus design to a wider audience. The more palatable size, as well as the wider range of configurations it was available in, made it an appealing alternative.

This example captures all the traits which make early variants of the 3800 so attractive. The lume on the hands and the index markers has developed a rich patina over time, which matches evenly between them, imbuing the watch with a distinctive vintage charm. Whilst most examples of the reference 3800 feature a slightly different colour on the hands and the index markers, this example stands out for its consistency.

Far from being uniform, the dial of this reference 3800 has also developed a very subtle aquamarine colour, displaying a gradient of green and blue tones throughout. This variation is a result of changes in the production process throughout the early lifecycle of the reference, ageing over time, or a combination of the two. Such colour changes have also been observed examples of the reference 3700, where such variances in dial colour are most associated with specific types of dials. The black date disc, which blends effortlessly into the design, also sets this example apart. It is speculated that the darker date discs used are part of earlier production runs, suggesting that this watch is an early example of the piece.

To add to the rarity of the piece, it is bears a “Beyer” signature just above the 6 o’clock marker, a retailer based in Zürich, Switzerland. Known as the oldest continually operating watch retailer in Switzerland — and possibly the world — Beyer are the epitome of old-school watch collecting. Beyer started selling Patek Philippe watches around 1842, and the two institutions have remained particularly close since then. Both the retailer and the watchmaker share a lot in common, being family-owned businesses, passed down over several generations and going along their business discretely and with an eye towards tradition. The style and font of the “Beyer” signature found on this reference 3800 is consistent with other examples which have come to market.

Closer look

This Nautilus 3800 is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks throughout consistent with minimal wear. The bracelet has 20 links, including 5 removeable ones. The Extract from the Archives confirms the dial as “black matte ribbed dial”, though it does not mention the “Beyer” signature, as is to be expected from Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives documents. The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.